If you’ve ever strolled through Stora Torget in Linköping and thought, “What’s with the grumpy monk on a horse?” – you’re not alone. I recently learned that the “monk” is actually Folke Filbyter, a legendary (and rather cantankerous) pagan forefather of the powerful Bjälbo dynasty. According to folklore, Folke refused to convert to Christianity even as the rest of Sweden was turning the other cheek. His most famous tale? Riding across the country searching for his kidnapped grandchild, who was being raised Christian- a bitter symbol of a world changing around him.
Folke sits atop a fountain sculpted by Carl Milles in 1927, but it’s the base of the fountain that really grabbed my attention. Surrounding the pedestal are intricate bronze reliefs, each telling a piece of medieval Sweden’s story:
Inheritance Law: A scene showing property being divided, marking the dawn of Sweden’s legal structure. Peace and Trade: A Hanseatic merchant shaking hands with a Swedish trader, reminding us that medieval diplomacy looked a lot like a business deal. The Bjälbo Family Tree: An elaborate genealogy of the dynasty Folke supposedly founded- medieval power players cast in bronze.
It’s not just a fountain. It’s a history book in public art form- one you can walk around, photograph, and accidentally trip over if you’re not paying attention.
But the story doesn’t end with medieval drama. Stora Torget itself is undergoing a transformation. As summer approaches, the square is buzzing with construction crews preparing for a revamped public space. The city is adding more greenery, outdoor seating, and room for cafés to spill out into the sunshine. At the same time, historic buildings around the square are being carefully restored to preserve Linköping’s architectural character.
One standout example: the beautiful building at Stora Torget 3, a turn-of-the-century treasure, has just been reimagined as a modern co-working space called DoSpace. It’s a perfect metaphor for what’s happening all around the square- old bones, new life.
This summer, Stora Torget will be more than just a town square. It’ll be a living timeline- from Folke Filbyter’s bronze scowl to café tables under the Swedish sun, from medieval law to modern laptops. If you find yourself in Linköping, stop by and see how the city’s past and future are sharing the same cobblestones.





Stora torget

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